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Messages - Aaron Hulett

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In theory, that file shouldn't be running.

Is that Opera helper still running? If so, let's see if we can figure out where it's at. While it's running, see if you can open Task Manager (click Start and type Task Manager to find it). Then go to the Details tab. Then look through there to see if you can find something running that's using the same Opera icon as you see on the taskbar. If you find something, right-click it and select Properties, and that will tell you the filename and its location. The location may actually go beyond what's shown there, but if you right-click it and then click Select All, then you can right-click it again and select Copy to copy the full location out of there.

What's the EXE's file name?

LandzDown Lounge / Re: Folding@home team?
« on: May 22, 2020, 08:26:14 PM »
Is this the same version that added COVID19 to the choosable list? I am on 7.6.13 but I got it weeks ago. Should I re-install it?
Not sure when they added that to the list (I didn't even know it was there). But if you're on 7.6.13, that I do believe is the current one, and no need to reinstall.

Its called getting  all the info needed and for your info..all opinions count

On our end it is called unnecessary duplication of effort.

Thread ends.

LandzDown Lounge / Re: Folding@home team?
« on: May 22, 2020, 06:52:34 PM »
And 3,000 :)

If you haven't pulled client version 7.6.13 in the last week or so (it's fairly new), it seems that the retry timers are more aggressive, meaning if you don't get a work assignment, it doesn't wait quite as long to try again. Some of those wait times were getting really long, but now I'm finding the majority of times I check, I have work assignments across the board, rather than some of them sitting in ready.


how do you stop the system restore on sdcard?
Did you read the article???

If you try its suggestions, I won't be able to assist if something goes wrong. No warranty, etc. etc.


I formatted the sd micro card and that sysytem file wont go away?? oh well

It didn't go away, or it was newly re-created?
Newly re-created. By design. The article I linked to provides details on what it's for.

Can format the card in the drone, but once the card is back on the Windows box, System Volume Information will be created and indexing information, among other possible things, will be written in it. In theory, this folder shouldn't be taking up that much relative space.

Does the Win10 email app store the emails on your hard drive? [...] I'm thinking I don't want that to happen.  I don't need to be storing spam on my hard drive!
Yes, emails are stored local so you can access them when offline. But.... I believe you can say only have email from the last X months/weeks/days. In other words, you keep a timeframe-worth of email locally; the rest just sit on the server.

Generally emails are pretty small in size, especially in comparison to other files, so 'in theory' this shouldn't take a lot of space. Says a person with a 7-gigabyte local copy of his email via the full Outlook desktop app, but this goes back to 2013. I prefer everything be local versus only keeping a recent timeframe worth local. If I kept only the last 3 months, it'd be much smaller. And I would suspect Outlook has some 'features' that make the file bigger than what some other programs would have for a local copy.

I also couldn't find out if the default connection the mail app uses is POP3 or IMAP.
I'm going to take an educated guess, based on clicking the add a Yahoo! account option in the Mail app - it's looking like it connects directly to the Yahoo! service similar to how adding a GMail account would work, so it may not be either POP3 or IMAP but rather Yahoo!'s interface. Based on that, I would expect the experience to follow an IMAP-like method where your email is not pulled from the server, stored locally, and then deleted from the server like a typical POP3 experience, if that's a concern.


LandzDown Lounge / Re: Folding@home team?
« on: May 11, 2020, 04:22:22 PM »
2,000 work units!

Computer Problems, Questions and Solutions! / Re: Login Win 10
« on: May 08, 2020, 08:19:54 PM »
Some deeper details.

1. Most of the people I know don't read the fine print so they wouldn't bother reading about setting up a local account. If the internet is down at their home, does that mean they can't login on a Win 10 computer? Is the computer then unusable until they can log in?
Users can still log in. It's generally the same scenario as if you were signing into a work account (a domain account) but you're not at work (not able to access the domain): Windows will look at cached credentials, a.k.a. verify your password locally based on what your password was the last time you logged in, to log you in.

2. If you have a MS account, is it possible to create a local account and use that instead?
 (one of my friends has really, really slow dsl and I'm wondering how long it takes her to login with a MS account)
Yes. New computer setups (the Out Of Box Experience), where you set up your new PC/laptop, are increasingly hiding this as an option, but if you skip the wifi connection part of setting up the computer, it should still show the local user account option. For now?

If you login via local account does MS lose their telemetry? I know you'll lose your syncing ability if you use a local account to sync your settings across diffrent devices ie, personal settings and Edge settings and bookmarks. You won't lose what you have, it just won't sync.
Telemetry still flows.

But you can think of it somewhat along the lines of what Facebook does. When you visit a website with the Facebook like/etc. integrated on it, Facebook can see that you were there. If you have a Facebook account, they can tie that to your Facebook account. If you don't, then all they know is that someone with random ID xyz that they assigned went to that site. So, they still build data, but don't tie it to an account.

Flipping it to Windows, generally speaking, if you log in with a Microsoft account, then when you hop into Edge or whatnot, part of the benefit is automatically logging you into Microsoft offerings, and they can in turn correlate data, such as search history on Bing. If you're not signed in (whether automatically through your Windows user profile, or by manually logging in), then as far as, say, search history on Bing is concerned, it's random ID xyz.

Generally speaking.

My friend with the slow dsl will be switching to cable so once she makes that change, I might want to tell her about some other things she may want to change.
There shouldn't be that much data increase if signing in with a Microsoft account versus a local account. Where data *will* increase is if things, say documents, are saved on OneDrive - that type of thing will of course take some data to perform file syncing. But otherwise there isn't a major data hit simply from logging into Windows with a Microsoft account and having account preferences and such sync up.

As far as I can tell you have to disable most telemetry separately.

I did NOT disable automatic updates, and MS appears to know exactly when I need one.
Yes, Windows Update is its own thing.

I always use a local account.
Me too.
Domain account here, but I've tied my Microsoft account to it. Domain account because I run Windows Server Essentials at home.

Let me take a try at summarizing what this issue and solution entailed.

Issue: The Mail app that ships as part of Windows 10 was no longer properly working with Gmail. Unable to send email, such as from Gmail to Yahoo email addresses.

Fix: Reset the Mail app and add the Gmail account back to it by:
  • Start | Settings | Apps | Apps & Features
  • Locate the Mail and Calendar app (you can try searching the list for it to save time)
  • Click on this, and then click Advanced options
  • Scroll down until you see the Reset button, and click this to reset the Mail and Calendar apps
  • Once the reset completes, open Mail and add the Gmail account

To me, this suggests something's up with the 'connection' between the Mail app and Gmail. I wonder if simply removing the Gmail account from Mail and then adding it back again would also resolve, as this effectively re-establishes the connection again just as resetting it does. This could be a better approach if, for example, you have multiple accounts in the Mail app and you do not want to add them all back again after fully resetting it.

To remove the Gmail account only:
  • Open Mail
  • Click the cog (the gear icon) towards the bottom to open settings
  • Click Manage accounts
  • Click on your Gmail account
  • Click on Delete account from this device and complete deleting it
  • Back in the Manage accounts area, click on Add account and add your Gmail account back


LandzDown Lounge / Re: Folding@home team?
« on: April 28, 2020, 10:58:37 PM »
1,000 work units!!

And we're at 3,282 of 252,534! Of course, climbing is going to get harder as we move towards the teams that have been at it a long time and/or with lots of members, but we've climbed a lot in a very short time!


"Just fired up the laptop and the WiFi button on the keyboard is back to a bright white instead of orange"

Believe the wifi card was turned off (orange light), and so Windows did exactly what it was supposed to do, remove the device given it is no longer active ('installed'). When the card was turned on (white light), Windows added the device back and starting using it. This is like unplugging and plugging in a USB device, except it's a keyboard combination that does this rather than physically removing/inserting anything.

Why did it get switched off, and how did it get switched back on? No idea. Maybe the wifi card was loose and now is back in the slot properly (whether it's 'loose' loose, or thermal expansion/contraction over time has slightly unseated it and it just needed to be reseated, or bumped just right, or ...), maybe there's a 'helper' app on the system (the internet suggests it could be called "Mobility Center") that can also flip the card on and off (maybe it has some automatic trigger that says turn the card off if...) and that option in the app was switched to on, the internet suggests [Fn] + [F12] as the key combination to flip wifi off and on (and it may also control Bluetooth), so maybe that was done, maybe ....... pure guessing.

Regardless, glad it's working.

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